Art Deco Jewellery

Art Deco Jewellery was strongly influenced by World War 1 and its aftermath. The exuberant spirit of post war years, the emergence of a fiercely emancipated woman, technological changes, the vivid colours of Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes, the Fauvist artists and orientalism, and loose columnar fashions were just some of the more significant factors that changed jewellery. The sinuous Art Nouveau and the delicate Garland Style incorporating diamonds, pearls and pale gemstones were swept away by simplistic bold stylisation, vivid colours, geometric motifs both linear and curved, subsequent new gem cuts and long jewellery characterising the jewellery of the 1920s. This was a period of exciting events and intoxicating jewellery. As in the Belle Epoque era fine jewellers favoured platinum as the premier metal of choice. While the image of the garconne  flapper’s short tunic dress, bobbed hair, heavy dramatic makeup, long sautoirs and earrings, arms stacked with narrow bracelets and watches is iconic in the 1920s much jewellery in the early Art Deco period still showed the influence of the Belle Epoque period. Rings often displayed fine detailing, with mounts of scrolls or floral design while millegrain embellished and softened  the edges of the metal

The stock market crash of 1929 influenced Art Deco jewellery in turn. The carefree flapper was replaced by a more feminine woman and jewellery became big, white and bold. Diamonds and platinum dominated often combined with rock crystal or just one other accent colour- ruby, emerald or sapphire. The geometry of the twenties became more curved and three dimensional with spirals, scrolls and pleats leading into the bold, voluminous designs of the 1940s.

A parallel movement favouring industrial designs of bolder and more confronting elements, featuring often silver and less valuable gems such as lapis lazuli, coral, jade and onyx developed also at this time. A number of now famous jewellers particularly in Germany and France created spectacular jewellery in this aesthetic which is keenly sought after today both for its bold design, history and wearability. James Alfredson carries a small but selective stock of Art Deco industrial design jewels at times.